Saturday, July 26, 2008

Once Upon a Bicycle...


Kyrgystan is an enchanting place! Immigration was a simple process. The one employee on duty curiously flipped through my passport. The short wave radio crackled and the clock knocked each second off. Several minutes later he asked me where I was from then neatly printed it in a large leger book.
Along the way, a mosaic of wildflowers edge the road that sways through the valley along the Tup river, interrupted only by stands of honey for sale. When the sun lowers to where the river surface turns a glassy silver the beekeepers pile into their brightly colored Ladas, aqua, lime, fuchia and pumpkin. They rattle back to their gingerbread villages where houses with blue cursive woodwork trim and lace curtains wait for them with hot tea.

Past the town potato and wheat striped fields hush in reverence to the men galloping by on horseback. Their koumiss jugs swinging as they ride, leaning into a confident stride. Sometimes they gallantly stop and offer me some. But lets not spoil the scene by mentioning what happened last time I had koumiss... oops I think I already did.

David from the Travel Agency told me that Kyrgystan was a fairy tale. It is! Complete with evil storms whose lightning claw at the mountains and thunder that menacingly roars across the valley. Only thing missing are the dwarfs.

Hospitality is the name of the game here and a unique network of homestays have developed into dainty bed and breakfasts. I'm staying at one tonight that has rose gardens, a small apple orchard and a washing machine!

Here a 'Stan, There a 'Stan, Bernadette's Route Plan


This blog mentions relatively little about where I'm going. I also realize that the map posted to your left is not very helpful either. So break out your atlas and come along for the ride.

After leaving Almaty, Kazakhstan, I cycled east opting to cross the border into Kyrgystan on the eastern side of Lake Issy Kul (may be spelled many different ways) to avoid all the traffic going to Bishkek. Yesterday I crossed into Kyrgystan in the Karkara Valley and am now in Karakol.

From here I will head back west along the southern shores of Lake Issy Kul with detours to see the poetic 'Valley of Flowers' and the beach in Tamga. Then continue on to Kochgor, Kyrgystan. If I can find the salt caverns at Sharhta Tuz, I'll stop there too. After all, I'm on vacation.

From Kochgor, I'll head south climbing the mountains that divide nothern and southern Kyrgystan to Naryn. From Naryn a rough road heads east to Jalal Abad. Then Ill zig zag back south to Osh.

The road south of Osh will lead my straight through the village of Sary Tash and into the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan. I'll follow the Pamir Highway through Murgab and Khorog then along to Dushanbe. Where I hope to find a beer and a well deserved rest.

It's Corny Big Time!


Oh Yeah!

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Ready to Rock and Roll!


Bernadette now has both a Kyrgys and a Tajik visas in her hot little hand and is ready to hit the road! The Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region(GBAO) permit that Akbar at the Embassy wouldn't give her can conveniently be done online (with a travel agency) and be waiting for her when she gets there. Wahoo!
(Bernadette suspects that Akbar was just a little offended that Bernadette couldn't pronounce Gorno-Badakhshan correctly. )

Apparently the Beatles also came to Kazakhstan.

Got Gas?


I think I mentioned that carbonated beverages are very popular with Almatians ( is that how you refer to Almaty residents?) Here is a street side soda vendor. If you are on a budget you can order soda without flavor syrup. I splurged. The glasses you see are on a little rinser. The charming lace around the gas tank sets her apart from all the other stand twenty meters down the street.

They even carbonate yogurt. Which sounds awful but is actually quite refreshing. I am continually blown away by how creative you can be with dairy. I think the only thing not made with milk in this region is alfredo sauce. But I'm sure that's only a matter of time.

Postcard


Some of you who are lucky enough to be on my postcard list may recieve this gem in your mail box. But it was just too great not to share with the rest of you! I think it wins the prize for worst postcard ever. It's better than the ones of Ho Chi Minh playing pingpong. Or the one of the taxadermy rabbit family in the dollhouse from Oberlin, Kansas. Have no idea what it says but I can bet it's not, "Having a great time in Kazakhstan." Ten points to whoever can translate it - or even better, offer suggestions on what it might/should say.

Street Scenes


Mountains, monuments and more trees!