Most Mongolians live in these round tents called 'gers'. They all have a stove in the center and beds on either side and an altar of sorts facing the door. The door is always facing south.(haven't had to used the compass yet) The family that owned this ger found me setting up my tent and emphatically refused to let me continue. I would come stay with them. When you arrive in a 'ger' you are sat down near the stove usually opposite the door, a respected position, and offered a bowl of milk tea accompanied by an assortment of milk products. Here is a typical 'conversation'.
Mongolian Hostess: gesturing sit down
Bernadette: Byharla (Thanks)
MH: goes to the stove, makes the tea
B: (stumbling throught the phrasebook for the appropriate phrase) I hope your animals are fattening well.
MH: nods, saying something, looking very very happy
B: Nods and waits, smiles at kids, asks if the drunk man passed out is their father.
MH: Presents the bowl of milk and sets a plate of cheese, another of butter and another of cream on a low table. gestures eat.
B: Sips the milk, "Mmm amtai" (delicious) reaches for some cheese and brings it towards her mouth.
MH: frantically waving no no
B: questioning look
MH: demonstrates spreading the butter on the cheese then eating
B: smiles, puts butter on her cheese too
Because nothing goes better with a bowl of milk than butter on cheese!
2 comments:
Wow, I love love love all the blog posts. I'm starting to get a feel for those Mongols. Have to say, I think my GI system would have exploded on this trip, considering that I'm lactose intolerant. Guess they don't have that problem in Mongolia?
And, I CAN'T BELIEVE what kind of "roads" you are traveling on! A less hardy soul would have bailed for France or some such paved place long ago. You have my utmost admiration, you kick ass.
Kiss a yak for me.
Hey there, Annmarie! Bernadette's no kiss yak. Also, I think you meant to say "you kick yak." No?
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