Wedding Options

There are two ways to get marrıed ın Kyrgystan. The easy way and the expensıve way. What's the easy way you ask? Brıde theft. It stıll happens. I had a long conversatıon wıth some gırls (Unıversıty students from Bıskek) about theır weddıng tradıtıons. They had two frıends get marrıed recently. One got marrıed the expensıve way. The other was duped ınto a car wıth some of her neıghbors male frıends and taken to the the home of one of the boys and presented to hıs parents as hıs brıde. Apparently once thıs happens ıt ıs too shameful for everyone ınvolved, her famıly and hıs, for herto return home unmarrıed. All her frıends felt sorry for her but there was nothıng she could do. Were she to run off she would be desertıng her famıly and any chances at a future match.

Galilea

I have been hesitant to write about my lack of bike problems for fear that I would jınx myself. But so far so good. The only problem has been that sometimes the wheels just wont stay on. They slip out of the little cradles and rub against the frame. The only thing I can do is to stop and put them back on again. In my frustaratıon I

came up with an ingenious solution involving super glue but the moment I bought some the problem quickly subsided. Ill have to get that taken care of when I get to a country with a bike shop.



Meanwhile she is very popular. Everyone wants to ride her. One guy asked if he could give her a spin and he was gone for an hour! I think she is having as much fun as I am.

Let the Games Begin

Here's something you won't see in Beijing!

One morning I woke up to the sound of horses outside my tent. They belonged to a group young Kyrgys guys who at some point that night had camped nearby. While I was making breakfast one came over to say hello. He was an English student.
'Have tea,' he said. 'Then we will play horse' and pointed to a goat eating grass by the tree.
'Play horse?' I asked.
'Yes, play horse.'
Well, this I had to see. After tea they quickly got on their horses. Stood in a circle around the goat and their one friend with a knife. Said a prayer, cut off the goat's head and feet and tossed the carcass into the air. Then they all darted after it on horseback trying to wrestle what was left of the goat away from eachother. It was messy. Once one got a hold of it they would wrap their leg around it and charge away from the group, everyone else running after. Then someone would catch up, wrestle it away and the whole thing would repeat. They played for over an hour.
Then we had some very tender shashlik. (kebabs)
There didn't seem to be a point system or any goals. I tried to ask who had won. There wasn't a clear answer. I guess everyone's a winner with shashlik!

Your Questions Answered

Thank you all for your comments and feedback. Its great to know this blog isnt just being read by my mother.

Why aren't I buying more souvineers? They are heavy. But I did get this great hat!

Am I wearing sunblock? Yes, and reapplication is the name of the game! I also wear a baseball cap when the wind doesn't blow it off. But I'm still looking a bit weathered. I don't think its anything a North American winter can't bleach out.

What do I think about when I ride? Well I sing a lot. I think about the road. Where I am, where I'm going. How lucky I am to be right where I am. What to make for lunch. I talk to myself and my bike. Sometimes in Spanish just to jazz things up a bit. I laugh at things I see like donkeys getting it on, and 15 people hanging out the back of a car. Lately I've been thinking a lot about how I could be as kind to others as they have been to me on this trip.

Roads

There is something relaxing about switchbacks. The grade is usually gentle and the back and forth rocking always puts me in a good mood. Especially if I'm going downhill!

On Top of the World

The view of the Naryn river valley from the top of the Moldo Ashuu pass.

Where's the Lake?

Backpackers I'd met echo the Lonely Planet's four star review of Lake Song Kol. It took me two days and a hailstorm to find the lake and when I did it was freezing cold and the lakefront was all marsh. Not great for a tent.
But okay for yurts and I stayed with this family of herders. THey called all the neighbors to come see me and then I had to visit all of their respective homes for tea and koumis. It was a long day! One man took me out on a horse to round up the goats. Im getting better at horse riding. I even managed to take this photo while he was munching edilevisse.

Oh My Osh!

Hello!
It has been a while since I have found internet. In my cyberabsense I have been busy having unimaginable Kyrgys adventures. I am currently in Osh, internet cafe hopping to find one where I can upload photos. Wait till you see these!
I have a few days to relax here in town before I head for the hills. I have been told that in the Pamirs it can be hard to find food. So Im imagining that internet access will be sparse. Check back soon!

Someone Had a Better Idea

nd t
Hi, all is well here in Kochkor. Tomorrow I head to the mountains and to Lake Song Kol. Going uphill I might wish I had one of these...

Be sure to click older posts because I've put up quite a few photos.

CBT

Community Based Tourism is thriving here in Kyrgystan. There are Engish speaking information centers in almost every town with maps and information about tours and guides. They also recommend a network of homestays. Whom recieve the 85% of the price you pay. It is the best bet (besides free camping) and always welcoming and helpful. I am in their office right now since the one internet cafe had some super firewall that wouldn't let me email.

Kyrgystan or Nevada?

Lake Issy Kul, day 3.

Greece or Kyrgystan?

Lake Issy Kul, day 2.

Around the World On One Lake

Lake Issy Kul is long and thin. It took me three days to ride along it's southern coast. The mountains to the north provided a nice backdrop the whole way. While the southern coast changed from day to day. The eastern end was green with wheat fields and tall trees. The second day looked like it had been plucked out of the mediterranean. Complete with donkeys, white rocks and short green shrubs. By the time I took the turnoff towards Kochkor I felt like I was in some desert oasis. Every night I found some tucked away spot on the beach to camp and swim in the clear water.

Shyrdaks

Kyrgystan's tourist information centers often double as gift shops. The most popular souvineer is a shyrdak. A felt carpet about a half inch thick and embroidered with intriquite (this comupter is in Russian and doesn't have spell check -sorry) designs. In homes they are used as carpets, beds, chair mats, door mats, and wall hangings. If they weren't so darn heavy I'd get one.

Joliemania

I don't get it. Angelina Jolie is everywhere. On notebooks, backpacks, plastic bags, shop signs. She even has her own bottles of wine. Remember when she was a certifiable crack job? Now somehow she's mother of the year. And she doesn't even have a kid from Kyrgystan. Yet.

Apricots!

I love apricots! They are the perfect mixture of sweet and tart. They are the perfect size for my jersey pocket and make great snacks while I'm riding. I probably eat half a kilo everyday. The ones that get squashed on the ride make a great jam/compote/soup on bread for breakfast the next morning.

A Lotta Ladas

I think this is my favorite photo of Kyrgystan. This woman is so patient. Nothing here happens fast. The cars are so colorful and their doors are always left open.

Mal Bazar

The Karakol Animal Bazar was described as the most exciting in the region. It sounded fantastic. It was a quiet affair. Maybe because it was 7 in the morning or maybe because livestock isn't that 'exciting'. People milling around the cows, horses, sheep and goats. Patting rumps and slapping sides and calmly discussing prices. This man is having shoes put on his new horse.

A Valley of Flowers

This is what I had hoped to see. Here is a scene along the main road to Barskoon.

The Valley of Flowers

I don't often take detours. But I was excited about 'The Valley of Flowers' on the map. So I turned off the road and cycled about 20km through the Jeti Orguz Canyon. But something had gotten lost in translation because I arrived in the only place in Kyrgystan without flowers. It was pretty and pretty ironic.