I have a fantastic map of the Pamirs! It shows all the altitudes, distances and towns. It even has cute little symbols to tell you what each town has to offer, a clinic, a teahouse, a homestay, or a store. According to the map, there was going to be a limited selection of food outside of Murgab. So I stopped by the market and picked up some instant noodles and a few potatoes and carrots before I left town. Despite my menu planning, often they end up as dead weight.
What the map didnt say was that the few yurts scattered in the mountainside were inhabited by some of the most generous people I´ve ever met. More often than not I am offered bread, butter and tea. Sometimes they insist I take some to go.
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